A queening chair is a sexual accessory
which has connotations with the BDSM/Kink world, but ultimately, its purpose is
fairly simple cunnilingus, so it can be of use to anyone who likes to do that.
What it does is provides support for doing it in a way that’s more comfortable
for the female, as well as making it more pleasurable, as receiving cunnilingus
from below (similar to face-sitting) gives the female more control over her
position, thus improving the sensation and delivering better orgasms. And isn’t
that what we all want?
Essentially, a queening chair is
simply a box, approximately the size of the giver’s head, with a padded top for
the recipient to sit-on. The design I will discuss here is my own, and can be
made fairly simply and cheaply, without expensive woodworking gear or
materials. The main “trick” to it is the mechanism used to control the giver’s
head, because the proximity to the vagina is both critical, and tricky to
control. In my design, I’m using an inflatable air-pillow, which is typically
used by locksmiths (*), which the occupant or recipient can inflate or deflate
to control easily and quickly.
* Locksmiths use this contraption to
break into cars. They insert it into a car door’s frame and inflate it to
create a gap, through which they can insert tools to unlock the door.
Typically, they would insert some kind of grip device to pull-open the manual
door lock or door handle.
Materials you would need:
- Wood, approximately 400 square inches. A single 20’x30’ board will be good, or 5 individual pieces approximately 10’x10’ each, if you are using left-over pieces. Mine is build using relatively thin, ½” board, but if your intended recipient is a heavier person, going with ¾” wood would be a good idea. You can use real wood or particle board, but solid wood would provide better looks and stability. This is where most of your money should go into, to get GOOD wood. You don’t want this thing crashing under your queen, potentially killing the moment or even injuring her (wood splinter in the clit is no bueno!)
- Foam to pad the seat area, about 10x10’ and ¾” thick, though ½” might be sufficient for lighter sitters. You can buy foam or repurpose foam from an old pillow from the thrift store.
- Some covering material for the foam, for both comfort and fluid control. I would recommend leather or upholstery vinyl, and you’d need about 14x14’. For cost cutting, some old leather coat from the thrift store can be cut and reused.
- Inflatable air shim, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015CJEHZM ($17)
- Screws or other hardware to put the wood pieces together
- Staples to upholster the seat
Tools:
- Jigsaw to cut the face hole
- Table saw to cut the wood is ideal, but if too expensive, can be done with the same jigsaw
- Staple gun (manual or automatic). You can use a regular office stapler for this, but that’s tricky as the simple office staples may not be sturdy enough to penetrate the wood.
- Measuring tape and/or ruler.
How it’s done.
- Cut the wood pieces to size. The
sizes I’m listing here would be for ½” wood. If your wood is thicker, you’d
need to cut your pieces a little larger, so they fit snugly together. I’m
listing the measurements in centimeters, as that’s more accurate than inch
fractions without going into long fraction.
Sizes: 25.2 x 20.7 centimeter.
Top and Bottom: 25x23 centimeters
Back: 20.7 x 21. - Draw an oval on the top piece and use the jigsaw to cut it out (*). The oval should be 11 centimeter wide, and 14 centimeter long, and start 2 centimeters from the front. This is the ideal size for me and should fit most people but might be too small for some larger people.
- At this point, I recommend putting the thing together with simple tape, and try to stick your (or the intended occupant’s) head in, to be sure it fits well and can raise your head to the right height. If not, you might need to adjust it by cutting the wood down or getting new wood and making bigger pieces. Keep in mind that the air shim inflates by about 2”, so that’s the height range. You want to make sure there’s enough room to insert the head in comfortably with the shim deflated, and that it raises the head enough when inflated about half-way.
- In one of the side panels, cut a hole
for the inflation bulb. For the air-shim I listed above, 3.5 centimeters would
be needed. You can do that with a 1.5” spade blade, a 1.5” hole saw, or just
with your jigsaw (though making a small hole with the jigsaw can be tricky.
* The trick to cut a hole in wood with a jigsaw is to drill somewhere along the outline (inside the shape) a thick drill-bit (one that’s wider than the width of the jigsaw blade). Then, insert the jigsaw in it and cut in spiral towards the outline. Then continue around the outline until it’s done. This can be tricky with smaller outlines, as the jigsaw’s maneuverability is limited to small angles (because the blade won’t twist in-place). For the face hole, this would be good. For the smaller 1.5” hole, could be difficult. - put the foam on the top and cut out a hole in it to match the hole in the wood.
- Place the leather on top of the foam and stretch it around the wood edges. Put in staples in a round-table manner so as to keep the stretch going. To do this, start by putting one staple on the right, in the middle of the length of the side, then another one across on the other side, and then on the other two sides. Then add another staple to the first side, then across again. Don’t go overboard with the stapling – a surface this size should need about 4-5 staples on each side. Then, tuck the corners back and under and staples them too.
- In the middle of the covered hole, cut 4 slits in the shape of a star in your leather, from edge to edge. Pull the pieces down through the hole, and under, stretch and staple them under.
- Put the box pieces together using either glue, screws, nails or some other hardware (like L pieces). There aren’t major rules to this – use whatever and as much as feels sturdy enough to support your recipient. Remember to pre-drill your holes, so that the screws don’t cause the wood to crack or burst. In my box, I used a dozen ½” L pieces for maximum stability, but with thick wood and 1” screws, this might be an overkill.
- Before putting on the top, paint the box if you like. You might paint the inside, outside or both, use varnish, paint, protective glaze, or any other cover material you like. You can also coat it in leather.
- Insert the air shim’s balloon through the hole and attach the shim to the base (it has a screw-hole that fits that).
- That’s it! Time to invite your special one to sit and try it out! Optional improvements are building side-handles for the recipient to hold-on to during those intense orgasms, and possibly a back-rest for those who prefer to lead back instead of crouch.
